Man-made Stiffness

I have written often about suppleness in horses and how to achieve it.  I have also explained the concept of each horse having two distinct sides: one hollow and one stiff.  So, today I wanted to write about a related concept:  resistance or “man-made stiffness”.

Often I see people, trainers included, working to supple a horse only to have the horse become stiff and resistant.  The important word here is “resistant”.  When working with the horse, you must always find their stiff side, that’s a given.  If a horse is stiff on one side of the bridle he will also be stiff all through his beck and body on that same side.  And, you should never forget that after softening a horse’s stiff side, you will need to go to their hollow or “soft” side to help the horse balance.  But, you must also remember that there’s what I call a “golden moment” – that instant when the horse softens and the rider must soften as well or new issues start to occur.

Over and over I see people making the mistake of not giving or even relaxing when a horse begins to soften or “give” to the rider’s aids.  Once this happens, horses become stiff in a new way.  This man-made stiffness is because there was no release or “reward” for giving to the aids.  The rider keeps asking and the horse starts resisting and the rider keeps asking, often demanding more and more, and the horse continues to resist, often to the point of becoming angry but definitely to the point of man-made stiffness.  The golden moment of give and take has passed and it’s now an unfortunate battle. 

The basic concept that’s often forgotten here is that when the horse gives, the rider must give back.  It’s a two-way street if you will, and it can all happen – and pass – in the blink of an eye.   True, if a horse “takes” the bridle rein you must “take” it back.  But here again, you must also soften or “give back” to the horse as soon as the horse yields or, you start to create stiffness.  If you’re working on leg yields for example, as soon as the horse softens his shoulder and rib cage while going forward, you should soften the cues and encourage the forward.  Or, if you are just sitting on a horse asking him to give to your leg, stop asking as soon as the horse yields. 

The list of examples could go on and on but hopefully you get the idea.  It’s all about that golden moment of give and take!   Talk to you next week.  JD

Fundamentals

To my great surprise I see that many aspiring riders who come to me for help have not been taught what I feel are the fundamentals horsemanship.  Yes, many coaches put students on lounge lines to get their balance and they give their students exercises on horseback to aid in their agility.  But, I’m thinking of something different…

Horses are herd animals and we have become a society primarily of people who have very little or no experience with a herd of anything, let alone horses.  Most people need a lot of help just understanding the basic personality of horses.  There has been a lot of research on how horses learn and how they remember things, etc., but often I find that previous to me, no one discussed this with my new student nor was the horse’s part in all this really even considered.  Just sitting securely is not enough.

Too often, lessons avoid things like discussing and learning about the “feel” of the horse’s mouth in a rider’s hands, or say, how the rhythm in a rider’s seat can affect the gait.   Basic knowledge of how a horse moves mechanically is so often never discussed beyond the basic gaits.  I think it is important to understand why some things work and why some do not.  Why some things work on some horses and on others they are just a disaster.

I also believe all students should be taught the basic mechanics of bits, how bits should fit and why they work in a horse’s mouth.  This leads to a discussion of horse mouths and then onto why teeth are important, and then on to a general discussion of basic, everyday equipment.  Such things as why the basic aids work and why basic rein techniques are so valuable are often left un-taught.  It’s not enough to just tell a student what to do; I think it’s crucial that they understand the “why” and “how” of what they’re doing so they’re not just “doing” – they’re learning!

Yes, I am on a soapbox here but, horse ownership is dwindling, registrations are down in nearly all breeds and horse show attendance is shrinking.   I believe by teaching the art of horsemanship and not just telling a rider how to sit for a few laps around the ring, we can get and keep more people interested in horses and all that’s involved with them.   What a wonderful thing for all of us, and for the horses that depend on us!

Horsemanship can be a life-long pursuit – it certainly has been for me!  Next time you have a lesson, make time to ask "why" and "how".  It will be the start of a wonderful conversation that I hope will last you a lifetime too!  Talk to you next week, JD.

A Fast Growing Event: English Trail

In the horse show world nothing is static.  Events develop, new events are added, rules change and rules are added as needed.  The relatively recent addition of English riding styles to Arena Trail.  English Trail is still in its infancy as an event and is sure to evolve as more people participate.  Today we’re seeing primarily hunter-type horses join in this new event but it’s open to any English style horse so I expect we’ll see Saddle Seat, Show Hack and other English styles join in as riders learn how fun this challenging event can be!  

English Trail is a working class with between six to eight obstacles which the horse and rider must maneuver around, over and through while exhibiting confidence, curiosity and athleticism.  Obstacles are taken from the original Western class so include bridges, gates, back-throughs and of course walk-, trot- and canter-overs.  That said though, English Trail is not just Western Trail in an English saddle; the courses are usually spread out more than Western Trail to accommodate the longer stride of an English-type horse.  

 The event is designed to show the athleticism, willingness and overall training of the horse.  It takes a lot of practice at home so your horse is prepared for the obstacles it might encounter at the show.  The English Trail horse should be solid in its walk, trot and canter gaits and bold enough to get through the obstacles before starting out in this new event.

 English Trail gives an excellent opportunity for an English type horse to perform in a working class that is not a jumping or driving course.  To excel in this event, horses must be able to stride out to a 4’ to 4.5’ trot and a 7’ to 8’ canter.  Riders who typically work to that stride on the “flat” should also be prepared for a small jump, typically a cross-rail of no more than 2 feet (1.5’ for amateurs, 2’ for open classes).  And of course, various other poles may be raised just as in the Western version of the event. 
    
As with other English events, the horse is shown with two hands so this class is an excellent opportunity to work an inexperienced Trail horse that is beyond its junior horse years.  Additionally English Trail horses need not be as collected as you’d expect of say, a Hunter Pleasure horse.  The horse must be collected yes, but to a degree that gives them freedom to use their head and neck as they travel over and around the obstacles.  English Trail can also be a welcome change for that ring-sour horse that’s learned to anticipate the announcer’s call!

To meet the requirements of this event, one must be in proper attire, meeting the USEF or breed specifications for the “flat” version of their English discipline.  Today, a strapless hunt cap or derby is generally accepted but protective headgear may be worn without penalty.  The horse must also be tacked up in its corresponding and proper flat class equipment.  You’re currently not required to braid as you might for a flat class.  This may evolve but I prefer not to braid as a tightly braided mane might inhibit a horse’s ability to lower his head in a walk-over or bridge.

To post or not to post is also an evolving topic.  Poles in trot-over obstacles will usually be set accommodate a posting English trot but I advise my riders to sit the trot when executing serpentines or any other trotting obstacle that requires arcing, circling or is too compact to accommodate a solid posting stride.

English Trail will continue to evolve out from under the shadow of Western Trail so if you’re looking for an event that can help you add miles to your green Trail Horse or that challenge the abilities and intellect of you and your old partner, check out the English Trail classes at your next local show.  Talk to you next week!  JD  (And to see pictures of English Trail in action, watch for coming pics of Gina Heinricks and Montego Bay Star: Region V Champions in PB Western Trail AATR, English Trail Open and English Trail AATR - Congratulations Gina & Montego!)

Backsliding (Regression)

     Sometimes horse just go backwards in their training.  If it happens to you here are some things to consider.   Horses, like some people, don’t learn on an even trajectory.  There are many ups and downs and plateaus. 
     After a horse has regressed and then proceeded to “relearn” something, the horse will usually be more solid in his learning or mastering of a maneuver etc.  I’ve experienced this first hand many, many times but it’s actually been proven in laboratory tests too – with mice though, not horses – but the proof is in the results!   When horses come back after a regression they often exhibit more confidence.  Many times even seeming “happier” with the work they are asked to do. 
     I think it’s important to figure out what caused the horse to regress in the first place.  Sometimes it’s as simple as they need a break from hard work.  Other times it can happen after a long show or tough competition where the work was demanding and maybe a little over their comfort zone.  In some cases I change up their work for a while and then go back to the “old” work and viola!, we have good results.  In other cases I may decide that more of a change is needed and I’ll even back down on their bit, or spurs or whatever’s needed to get them back to a level they’re confident at, then we patiently work our way back up from there.
     Just break things down to a level the horse is confident in and be patient.  And, more likely than not, he will be a better trained horse than before the regression.   I can’t say it enough though; the most important thing here is to be patient, to not get frustrated with the backwards step.  Just calmly go back through the work, retraining patiently as you go, and you’ll be surprised how fast you’ll be back where you want to be.
     Horses learn by repetition, and they learn by making mistakes.  They learn in an uneven pattern but they will always go forward if you take the time to help them through whatever difficulty they are having.  Remember: it’s all about building confidence!  Talk to you next week, JD

Know the Rules

     I'm at the Region 5 Sport Horse Championships this week and can't even begin to count the number of times I've watch the TD (steward) call people out for various rule violations - some minor and some fairly serious - and in every case avoidable if only people had read the rules. 
     Before you enter a show or a specific class, be sure you know the basic rules that apply and what will be expected of you.  All breeds and associations have rule books - almost all are online now - that allow you to easily check everything you need to know.  You can read up on everything from allowable length of hoof, legal bits and equipment, and even placement of numbers and proper attire and, so much more.  Read the show's premium materials carefully too to ensure you understand the rules of the show ground and how the show will be conducted.
     In show after show I see good horses disqualified because their bit was illegal or something as simple as a chin strap was wrong.  I have seen riders score a zero (no score) for handling a gate improperly in a Trail class or disqualified for accidentally riding on course before the class.  I've watched stewards (rightly so) remove illegal martingales and other schooling equipment.  I've watched exhibitors be asked to leave the grounds because they violated a show facility's rule, and on and on and on.....
     It is advisable to not only read the rules carefully but to also seek help to interpret them from someone who has a deep working knowledge and understanding of the type of show or classes you wish to enter.  I also advise everyone to watch a few classes before entering them as this helps you get a "feel" for what will be expected of you. 
     By watching classes you'll get an understanding of what is expected in terms of tack and attire, right down to little things like where to properly pin your number.  The old saying "when in Rome, do as the Romans do" is good advice!  This advice also applies if you are changing the breed you are showing.  Each breed has it's own particulars and even peculiarities.
     Not knowing the rules is disrespectful to the other exhibitors, the judge and the class itself.  If you're going to show, set yourself up for success by getting ready both on and off your horse.  Always work on improving your riding but, also make time to read and understand the rules that apply to the discipline(s) you've chosen.  Talk to you next week!  JD

Starting Your Horse in Arena Trail

As I mentioned last month, Arena Trail is all about a willingness to negotiate obstacles and most importantly, agility.  The Arena Trail horse must negotiate obstacles with style and ideally never touch a thing.  Horses must be able to work over and through obstacles and turn and circle in tight spaces – all of which can be very challenging.  Working up to and through the maneuvers of Arena Trail can be very rewarding for both horse and rider no matter whether you just want to vary your work-out routine or your goal is to show your horse.   

To get off to a good start in this exciting event, your horse must already have solid, consistent gaits.  For Western horses, a lope with a 6 to 6.5 foot stride and a jog trot of 3 to 3.5 feet is ideal; with an English horse I add at least 12” to each.  The walking stride for all disciplines is typically a 1’ to 1.5’ but you should be able to shorten or lengthen your horse’s stride at a walk as needed (and don’t confuse short with slow.  Short means a short stride, possibly even a hoof’s length in distance.).

 The beginning horse should also have all the basic moves you’d expect of a “well broke” horse.  This includes a back-up, side-pass, turns on both the haunches and forehand.  The horse should circle well and turn easily, showing little or no resistance.  The horse will need to be supple in order to do good Arena Trail.

 I like to start my beginning horses with a simple jog/trot obstacle to negotiate.  The jog or trot is a good training gait and helps a horse achieve cadence and well as confidence over poles.  The first time I ride a horse over poles I set out just three poles.  A single pole with two poles about 20’ away that are a jog (3’) or trot (4’) stride in parallel, depending on what horse I’m riding.  Then, I jog/ trot the horse into a well cadenced gait and when I have it, I jog over the single pole and around and through the open space between the two parallel poles.  

This may sound simple but it can prove challenging enough for the beginning horse and the goal is to build confidence.  If all goes well, I’ll start to build on the routine - going over the parallel poles then around and through them, developing a good arc and maintaining cadence.  I may go over the two then loop back around and halt between the parallel poles to work on a balanced halt.  In a later session I may back between the two poles to work on a straight and unresisting back-up.   

These exercises are also good for riders.  The poles can help with your “aim” (always work the center of the poles). Poles help improve rider’s legs to keep their horse arced and striding evenly.  And, riders need to look ahead in Arena Trail so practicing turning your head, but not your body, to look at the next obstacle can help with overall “feel” for a horse.  Look up, look where you’re going next, aim for the center of that pole.  (It’s helpful to paint stripes on your poles or wrap them with colored tape.  This not only helps the rider “aim” for the center, it gets the horse used to seeing and working around different obstacles.)

As my rides develop and I think the horse is ready, I’ll set up a lope obstacle.  Unlike the trot/jog poles, I’ll start with just one pole, somewhere about five or six strides off the rail and at a right angle to one of the arena walls.   When the horse easily lopes that one pole, keeping a correct stride, relaxed frame and of course, not swapping leads, then I’ll add a second parallel pole about 6’ (lope) or 7’ (canter) but I’ll also keep a single pole somewhere nearby to go back to as either a warm-up or as encouragement if the double poles prove to be more of a challenge than I expected.

I like to then add all those poles – the trot/jog and the lope/canter – together as the horse and rider develop and get ready for transitions between the poles.  Jog/trot to lope/canter and vice versa.  And all the poles can be jogged/trotted at any time if you need to back down a bit to rebuild some confidence.

I work all my beginning Arena Trail horses with two hands because I can control their shoulders easily that way.  It’s important that the horse be “good in the bridle”.  If the horse is pulling or rooting with his nose, it will be impossible for him to go over poles in a pleasing manner and as obstacles get more complex, it will just be impossible to do the work.

About this time, I like to set up cones to jog the horse around and through.  I set them up wide, about 9’ apart to begin with, then serpentine through them.  I also add in side passing over a single pole and stopping and standing quietly by the gate.  Until the horse can stop at a gate and stand patiently, I don’t go any further.  The next step will be opening and closing the latch (or rope) while the horse stands still and, separately, side passing up to the gate and standing still.

During this beginning phase, as the horse develops, I add lots of small and large circles with stops and pivots.  I add back-ups in an “L” to both the right and left as.  I’ll continue the serpentines at a jog, setting the cones more narrow as the horse’s skill grows and I’ll start to teach a nice, simple lead change – and later a flying change – because it’s not just great for Arena Trail, I think it’s the hallmark of a “well broke” and “handy” horse!   Talk to you next week, JD

Ride With a Plan

(Hi everyone - I've been tied up with some other things lately so got a little behind with the blog but all's well and I'm back now and have several more written and ready to go so........ read on!)

     Those of you who know me know that I strongly believe that everytime you touch a horse "you're either training it or untraining it".  So whether you ride for fun or for show, it's can be really beneficial to have a plan in mind when you begin any ride.  First, you must have a general goal or aim in mind.  Maybe you just want your horse to walk when it's on the trail next time it's out with other horses.  Or maybe you need to work on improving passing on the rail or backing up in a straight line before your next show.  Ideas can run the gamut so look critically at your rides and determine what part might benefit from a thoughtful strategy.
     I advise people to identify problems or weak areas but there is also always room for improvement on most everything and since horses are animals, not machines, they are always changing.  Horses are not static so they're never fully "set".  And riders keep learning for their entire "riding career".  Even the best broke horse and most accomplished rider can benefit from a "tune up" ride.
     So, after you have identified your goal, you'll need to think of the exercises - for horse or rider - or perhaps the patterns, that will help you and your horse achieve the goal.  I also really like to vary my rides.  I find that horses blossom under training regimens that differ daily, offering different challenges for their body and mind.  This really helps keep a horse "fresh".
     Those exercises might include reverse arcs to help with shoulder issues, or backing up a step at a time to overcome an issue with rushing.  Exercises might be for you too - such as riding without stirrups to work on your posture or looking up and "aiming" at something in the distance and riding a perfectly straight line to it - feeling your horse and making sure they never lean on your hands or legs.  Or, you might ride with a focus on your own shoulders to make sure one isn't drooping to the inside.  Exercises for your horse could include putting out a cone and attempting to ride a perfect large circle around it, then spiraling down to a perfect small circle (harder than it seems! Don't let your horse lean in - everything must remain balanced!)
     Side passes, shoulders in (or out), canter/lope a circle-halt-pivot-canter/lope-repeat, shorten a walking stride to one step-count to five-one step-count to five, trot or jog over a pole and on and on and on - the possibilities are nearly endless but different exercises and routines all accomplish different things. 
     To incorporate a plan into your training ride you must also understand what the different routines and exercises accomplish and you need to be able to ride them properly so ask your trainer or a professional to suggest some "home work" if you're not sure where to begin.  And remember that something that works with one horse may not work well with another.  You'll also find that given your horse's discipline, some exercises just are not appropriate, maybe even counter productive - like trying to teach an English horse to do roll-backs.
     I hope this gives you ideas about how to ride with a plan next time you're enjoying your horse!  Talk to you next week, JD.