Know the Rules

     I'm at the Region 5 Sport Horse Championships this week and can't even begin to count the number of times I've watch the TD (steward) call people out for various rule violations - some minor and some fairly serious - and in every case avoidable if only people had read the rules. 
     Before you enter a show or a specific class, be sure you know the basic rules that apply and what will be expected of you.  All breeds and associations have rule books - almost all are online now - that allow you to easily check everything you need to know.  You can read up on everything from allowable length of hoof, legal bits and equipment, and even placement of numbers and proper attire and, so much more.  Read the show's premium materials carefully too to ensure you understand the rules of the show ground and how the show will be conducted.
     In show after show I see good horses disqualified because their bit was illegal or something as simple as a chin strap was wrong.  I have seen riders score a zero (no score) for handling a gate improperly in a Trail class or disqualified for accidentally riding on course before the class.  I've watched stewards (rightly so) remove illegal martingales and other schooling equipment.  I've watched exhibitors be asked to leave the grounds because they violated a show facility's rule, and on and on and on.....
     It is advisable to not only read the rules carefully but to also seek help to interpret them from someone who has a deep working knowledge and understanding of the type of show or classes you wish to enter.  I also advise everyone to watch a few classes before entering them as this helps you get a "feel" for what will be expected of you. 
     By watching classes you'll get an understanding of what is expected in terms of tack and attire, right down to little things like where to properly pin your number.  The old saying "when in Rome, do as the Romans do" is good advice!  This advice also applies if you are changing the breed you are showing.  Each breed has it's own particulars and even peculiarities.
     Not knowing the rules is disrespectful to the other exhibitors, the judge and the class itself.  If you're going to show, set yourself up for success by getting ready both on and off your horse.  Always work on improving your riding but, also make time to read and understand the rules that apply to the discipline(s) you've chosen.  Talk to you next week!  JD

Starting Your Horse in Arena Trail

As I mentioned last month, Arena Trail is all about a willingness to negotiate obstacles and most importantly, agility.  The Arena Trail horse must negotiate obstacles with style and ideally never touch a thing.  Horses must be able to work over and through obstacles and turn and circle in tight spaces – all of which can be very challenging.  Working up to and through the maneuvers of Arena Trail can be very rewarding for both horse and rider no matter whether you just want to vary your work-out routine or your goal is to show your horse.   

To get off to a good start in this exciting event, your horse must already have solid, consistent gaits.  For Western horses, a lope with a 6 to 6.5 foot stride and a jog trot of 3 to 3.5 feet is ideal; with an English horse I add at least 12” to each.  The walking stride for all disciplines is typically a 1’ to 1.5’ but you should be able to shorten or lengthen your horse’s stride at a walk as needed (and don’t confuse short with slow.  Short means a short stride, possibly even a hoof’s length in distance.).

 The beginning horse should also have all the basic moves you’d expect of a “well broke” horse.  This includes a back-up, side-pass, turns on both the haunches and forehand.  The horse should circle well and turn easily, showing little or no resistance.  The horse will need to be supple in order to do good Arena Trail.

 I like to start my beginning horses with a simple jog/trot obstacle to negotiate.  The jog or trot is a good training gait and helps a horse achieve cadence and well as confidence over poles.  The first time I ride a horse over poles I set out just three poles.  A single pole with two poles about 20’ away that are a jog (3’) or trot (4’) stride in parallel, depending on what horse I’m riding.  Then, I jog/ trot the horse into a well cadenced gait and when I have it, I jog over the single pole and around and through the open space between the two parallel poles.  

This may sound simple but it can prove challenging enough for the beginning horse and the goal is to build confidence.  If all goes well, I’ll start to build on the routine - going over the parallel poles then around and through them, developing a good arc and maintaining cadence.  I may go over the two then loop back around and halt between the parallel poles to work on a balanced halt.  In a later session I may back between the two poles to work on a straight and unresisting back-up.   

These exercises are also good for riders.  The poles can help with your “aim” (always work the center of the poles). Poles help improve rider’s legs to keep their horse arced and striding evenly.  And, riders need to look ahead in Arena Trail so practicing turning your head, but not your body, to look at the next obstacle can help with overall “feel” for a horse.  Look up, look where you’re going next, aim for the center of that pole.  (It’s helpful to paint stripes on your poles or wrap them with colored tape.  This not only helps the rider “aim” for the center, it gets the horse used to seeing and working around different obstacles.)

As my rides develop and I think the horse is ready, I’ll set up a lope obstacle.  Unlike the trot/jog poles, I’ll start with just one pole, somewhere about five or six strides off the rail and at a right angle to one of the arena walls.   When the horse easily lopes that one pole, keeping a correct stride, relaxed frame and of course, not swapping leads, then I’ll add a second parallel pole about 6’ (lope) or 7’ (canter) but I’ll also keep a single pole somewhere nearby to go back to as either a warm-up or as encouragement if the double poles prove to be more of a challenge than I expected.

I like to then add all those poles – the trot/jog and the lope/canter – together as the horse and rider develop and get ready for transitions between the poles.  Jog/trot to lope/canter and vice versa.  And all the poles can be jogged/trotted at any time if you need to back down a bit to rebuild some confidence.

I work all my beginning Arena Trail horses with two hands because I can control their shoulders easily that way.  It’s important that the horse be “good in the bridle”.  If the horse is pulling or rooting with his nose, it will be impossible for him to go over poles in a pleasing manner and as obstacles get more complex, it will just be impossible to do the work.

About this time, I like to set up cones to jog the horse around and through.  I set them up wide, about 9’ apart to begin with, then serpentine through them.  I also add in side passing over a single pole and stopping and standing quietly by the gate.  Until the horse can stop at a gate and stand patiently, I don’t go any further.  The next step will be opening and closing the latch (or rope) while the horse stands still and, separately, side passing up to the gate and standing still.

During this beginning phase, as the horse develops, I add lots of small and large circles with stops and pivots.  I add back-ups in an “L” to both the right and left as.  I’ll continue the serpentines at a jog, setting the cones more narrow as the horse’s skill grows and I’ll start to teach a nice, simple lead change – and later a flying change – because it’s not just great for Arena Trail, I think it’s the hallmark of a “well broke” and “handy” horse!   Talk to you next week, JD

Ride With a Plan

(Hi everyone - I've been tied up with some other things lately so got a little behind with the blog but all's well and I'm back now and have several more written and ready to go so........ read on!)

     Those of you who know me know that I strongly believe that everytime you touch a horse "you're either training it or untraining it".  So whether you ride for fun or for show, it's can be really beneficial to have a plan in mind when you begin any ride.  First, you must have a general goal or aim in mind.  Maybe you just want your horse to walk when it's on the trail next time it's out with other horses.  Or maybe you need to work on improving passing on the rail or backing up in a straight line before your next show.  Ideas can run the gamut so look critically at your rides and determine what part might benefit from a thoughtful strategy.
     I advise people to identify problems or weak areas but there is also always room for improvement on most everything and since horses are animals, not machines, they are always changing.  Horses are not static so they're never fully "set".  And riders keep learning for their entire "riding career".  Even the best broke horse and most accomplished rider can benefit from a "tune up" ride.
     So, after you have identified your goal, you'll need to think of the exercises - for horse or rider - or perhaps the patterns, that will help you and your horse achieve the goal.  I also really like to vary my rides.  I find that horses blossom under training regimens that differ daily, offering different challenges for their body and mind.  This really helps keep a horse "fresh".
     Those exercises might include reverse arcs to help with shoulder issues, or backing up a step at a time to overcome an issue with rushing.  Exercises might be for you too - such as riding without stirrups to work on your posture or looking up and "aiming" at something in the distance and riding a perfectly straight line to it - feeling your horse and making sure they never lean on your hands or legs.  Or, you might ride with a focus on your own shoulders to make sure one isn't drooping to the inside.  Exercises for your horse could include putting out a cone and attempting to ride a perfect large circle around it, then spiraling down to a perfect small circle (harder than it seems! Don't let your horse lean in - everything must remain balanced!)
     Side passes, shoulders in (or out), canter/lope a circle-halt-pivot-canter/lope-repeat, shorten a walking stride to one step-count to five-one step-count to five, trot or jog over a pole and on and on and on - the possibilities are nearly endless but different exercises and routines all accomplish different things. 
     To incorporate a plan into your training ride you must also understand what the different routines and exercises accomplish and you need to be able to ride them properly so ask your trainer or a professional to suggest some "home work" if you're not sure where to begin.  And remember that something that works with one horse may not work well with another.  You'll also find that given your horse's discipline, some exercises just are not appropriate, maybe even counter productive - like trying to teach an English horse to do roll-backs.
     I hope this gives you ideas about how to ride with a plan next time you're enjoying your horse!  Talk to you next week, JD.

Arena Trail 101

     Arena Trail is about negotiating obstacles such as poles or logs and bridges.  It’s about handling gates of all shapes and sizes and occasionally even negotiating water hazards and dragging things.  Often courses are decorated with flowers, plants and bushes or other items to pique a horse’s curiosity.  Sometimes courses will even have a theme such as a farm (visualize toy tractors everywhere – yes, I’ve seen it) or even old cars! 

     Whatever the Trail course or its obstacles it can be a blast to watch the “go” of a well schooled horse that is confident and trusting, curious and athletic.  Trail is not only fun to watch, more importantly: some amount of training for this event is of benefit to all horses and riders – be they Western or English – and regardless of whether you show or not. 

     Most horses like the change in routine that Trail schooling brings.  It can help others gain confidence in the arena and working over poles can improve nearly every horse’s striding.  Arena Trail also gives riders a chance to vary their work, add new warm-up exercises to their routine and often improve their “feel” and general riding skills.  No matter what your goal, schooling for Arena Trail can help you become a closer and better partner with your horse – and you’ll have fun in the process!

     Modern Arena Trail is all about maneuverability, willingness and most importantly, agility.  The Trail horse must negotiate obstacles with style and ideally never touch a thing.  Horses must perform back-throughs, side passes and must be able to turn and circle in tight spaces which can be very challenging.  Trail horses must walk, trot, lope and halt when asked, with no resistance.  Often the courses are tight and transitions must be exact. 

     So…. Sounds like fun, yes?  But where do you start?  Arena Trail is an event that takes time and patience to train so it’s best to start out with simple maneuvers and build over time – much like teaching someone to read, you start out with the ABC’s, then a simple word, then get more complex as the student learns.  No matter what your horse’s true age, if they’ve not negotiated Trail obstacles before, they’re a new student and you not only want them to learn, you want to build confidence!

     I like to begin with one or two jog/trot poles or one lope/canter pole.  Trail is judged, in part, on striding over the poles and sometimes between the poles so, the jog poles for Western horses should be set 3 to 3.5 feet apart.  For an English horse, you’ll want to widen that to 4 feet.   As a horse grows more skilled in Trail the measurements can be more approximate but when I’m schooling a beginning Trail horse I take great care so the measurements should be as close to “perfect striding”  for the average horse as possible.

     I’ve had some beginning Trail horses that were curious and interested while others weren’t so sure about the obstacles.  Starting simple gives the horse the confidence it needs to build up to other, future obstacles and this simple start gives both horse and rider a good exercise in collection, striding and balance, used in a practical sense.

     During this starting phase those two jog/trot poles make a good starting back-through obstacle (though sometimes I have to widen them to build confidence).   I find it’s best to start teaching the back-through by walking the horse forward through the parallel jog/trot poles, asking them halt, then slowly asking for a straight back-up.  I’ll save teaching the horse to back into the actual obstacle for later, when they’re confident backing through simple obstacles. 

   A great thing about starting out with Trail though, you can always reduce things to their simplest common denominator.  Firstly, a horse must always be able and willing to do maneuvers without poles so I never teach maneuvers over poles until a horse is comfortable without poles.  For example, until a horse can lope or canter correctly, I’ll not lope or canter it over poles; the same thing can be said of the jog/trot and even the walk.  Until a horse can back up nicely, in a straight line, without rushing, I’ll not try to teach them to back through an obstacle.  You get the idea.  And, if a horse is afraid of the poles, I just encourage him or I’ll have him follow a veteran over or through an obstacle and before you know it, he’s doing it on his own.  I never punish an inexperienced horse over poles, I believe in letting the poles teach the horse!  And most of all, I believe in having fun while you learn and I hope this article makes you want to learn more about Arena Trail. 

     Talk to you next month with more on Arena Trail!  JD 

Bits

     There’s an old cowboy saying…. “a bit should fit a horse’s mouth like boots fit a cowboy’s foot”.   So, if a bit hangs too low or is jammed to high both can be uncomfortable and can discourage a horse from learning to “carry” the bit properly.
     Many people including professionals often don’t understand that a young horse has a shallow mouth because its teeth have not grown.  So an older horse might very well be comfortable with a thicker bit but that same but can be too much for the younger horse’s shallow mouth.   I usually bit up young horses with an average or slightly thicker-than-average bit.  Some older horses benefit from thicker bits depending on what you are trying to accomplish.  A note here:  You can usually tell if a horse is comfortable or not by how much he is chewing and adjusting the bit in his mouth. 
     Horse’s mouths change with age and they also change with training.  Horse’s mouths become educated and they learn to accept bits as their training progresses.  I’ve found that wet mouths make for better mouths but it’s not necessary that a horse be “drooly” to have a good mouth.
     The conformation of individual mouths must be considered also.  Some horses have narrow, shallow mouths with thin lips and some have wide mouths with lots of depth.  Some are small and some are large.   The thickness of their tongue should also be considered as well.  Horses with thick tongues will need bits that offer tongue relief.   
     Young horses often do well with bits that have some play and “pre-signal” in them.  It is just the opposite though for finely-tuned older horses.  The discipline you are training for also makes a difference.  Some horses just need to pack the bridle willingly and quietly while others must do complex maneuvers.  
      When fitting a curb, I look for one or one and a half creases at the corners of the mouth.  Classically, the curb strap should be adjusted so two of your fingers can fit between the strap and your horse’s jaw and the curb shanks should have a 15 to 30 degree swing but the mouthpiece should not rotate too much in their mouth.  And, with a snaffle I look for one to two creases at the corners of the mouth.
     With any equipment, the user – in this case the rider - is a major factor.  With the bit, the rider’s hands can be an issue.  Some bits are just not appropriate unless or until the rider has developed “soft hands” and has a real feel for a horse’s mouth.  
     I expect to and do change bits, sometimes frequently, as my horses age and develop and as they evolve through their careers.  Take a good look at the bits you use and if you’re not sure how each one is designed to work talk to your trainer to learn more.  Bits aren’t just common pieces of equipment; they can be fascinating studies in leverage and pressure and often, workmanship too.   I hope you enjoy learning more about them!  Talk to you next week.  JD

More on Positioning.....

    We talked about positioning the rider last week so now...... what about the horse?   I love how the great trainer Bob Avila said it: "if you control the rib cage everything else will follow".  Oh, how true but let's talk about this a minute because the devil can be in the details of that seemingly simple statement!
     A horse is basically built as a trapazoid so whichever way the shoulder goes, the hip will go to the opposite side and vice versa.  And, if a horse is yielding in his rib cage it's impossible for him to drop his shoulder.  This simple truth is often overlooked by horse people.
     Like all good trainers, I keep my horses supple and I do all kinds of exercises to achieve that suppleness but in the end, a horse must yield his rib cage to the rider's leg!  This allows the rider to ride the whole body of the horse.  While it's absolutely important to work on individual body parts such as a soft poll, a lifted back and shoulder, a rounded body etc.; the ultimate goal is to have the horse balanced throughout his body - i.e. collected - and the rib cage is the key.
     Focus on your horse's rib cage during your next ride to see what a difference that control can make.  To start, the horse should never lean or pull on a rein or lean on a rider in any way.  If a horse is even slightly leaning then he's not balanced nor can he be collected.  Hope this short thought helps during your next ride!  Talk to you next week, JD.

Positioning

     Whatever your discipline, how you position a horse’s body makes all the difference so it is of paramount importance that you understand the demands and needs of the discipline you are riding.  Positioning a horse’s body for barrel racing, for example, is very different than getting your horse correct for Trail, Western Riding or Reining.
     But…… it’s not my intent here to explain or go into the details regarding the needs of each of the aforementioned disciplines but rather I want to discuss how the rider influences the body position of the horse. 
     I’ll give you one clue to where I’m heading with this:  you must have your own body correct or nothing else can be correct.  In short, nothing really works correctly until you do.  Typically for most disciplines correct for you will mean: well balanced, heels deep, straight and square through your rib cage and shoulders and never stiff or arched in your back – remember sit up straight with your stomach muscles and hold up your chest and your back will follow without becoming hollow or arched).  If you are not sitting correctly you can interfere with your horse and in no way are you be able to help put the horse in the proper position that he needs to be to work his best. 
     Hand position is very important as well.  So often, I see horses dropping their shoulder because they’re “just following” the rider’s poorly placed hand.  You must be able to activate the correct rein and relax the opposite one when needed to allow a horse to have space to move while you still remain even and balanced. 
     The position of the rider’s legs is also so important.  I see riders attempting to collect their horses yet their own legs are way out in front, or they just have what I call “noisy” legs, meaning legs that are just not stable so they cause annoyance and possibly even confusion for the horse and an unstable seat for the rider. 
     In horses as in everything else, there is a direct relationship between cause and effect!  All horsemen must be effective and stable riders and to achieve this they must be aware of their own bodies and body parts and how those parts can positively or negatively affect their horse’s ability to perform well.  Now that I have you thinking about positioning, we’ll talk more about this at a later date!  Talk to you next week, JD