Ride With a Plan

(Hi everyone - I've been tied up with some other things lately so got a little behind with the blog but all's well and I'm back now and have several more written and ready to go so........ read on!)

     Those of you who know me know that I strongly believe that everytime you touch a horse "you're either training it or untraining it".  So whether you ride for fun or for show, it's can be really beneficial to have a plan in mind when you begin any ride.  First, you must have a general goal or aim in mind.  Maybe you just want your horse to walk when it's on the trail next time it's out with other horses.  Or maybe you need to work on improving passing on the rail or backing up in a straight line before your next show.  Ideas can run the gamut so look critically at your rides and determine what part might benefit from a thoughtful strategy.
     I advise people to identify problems or weak areas but there is also always room for improvement on most everything and since horses are animals, not machines, they are always changing.  Horses are not static so they're never fully "set".  And riders keep learning for their entire "riding career".  Even the best broke horse and most accomplished rider can benefit from a "tune up" ride.
     So, after you have identified your goal, you'll need to think of the exercises - for horse or rider - or perhaps the patterns, that will help you and your horse achieve the goal.  I also really like to vary my rides.  I find that horses blossom under training regimens that differ daily, offering different challenges for their body and mind.  This really helps keep a horse "fresh".
     Those exercises might include reverse arcs to help with shoulder issues, or backing up a step at a time to overcome an issue with rushing.  Exercises might be for you too - such as riding without stirrups to work on your posture or looking up and "aiming" at something in the distance and riding a perfectly straight line to it - feeling your horse and making sure they never lean on your hands or legs.  Or, you might ride with a focus on your own shoulders to make sure one isn't drooping to the inside.  Exercises for your horse could include putting out a cone and attempting to ride a perfect large circle around it, then spiraling down to a perfect small circle (harder than it seems! Don't let your horse lean in - everything must remain balanced!)
     Side passes, shoulders in (or out), canter/lope a circle-halt-pivot-canter/lope-repeat, shorten a walking stride to one step-count to five-one step-count to five, trot or jog over a pole and on and on and on - the possibilities are nearly endless but different exercises and routines all accomplish different things. 
     To incorporate a plan into your training ride you must also understand what the different routines and exercises accomplish and you need to be able to ride them properly so ask your trainer or a professional to suggest some "home work" if you're not sure where to begin.  And remember that something that works with one horse may not work well with another.  You'll also find that given your horse's discipline, some exercises just are not appropriate, maybe even counter productive - like trying to teach an English horse to do roll-backs.
     I hope this gives you ideas about how to ride with a plan next time you're enjoying your horse!  Talk to you next week, JD.

Arena Trail 101

     Arena Trail is about negotiating obstacles such as poles or logs and bridges.  It’s about handling gates of all shapes and sizes and occasionally even negotiating water hazards and dragging things.  Often courses are decorated with flowers, plants and bushes or other items to pique a horse’s curiosity.  Sometimes courses will even have a theme such as a farm (visualize toy tractors everywhere – yes, I’ve seen it) or even old cars! 

     Whatever the Trail course or its obstacles it can be a blast to watch the “go” of a well schooled horse that is confident and trusting, curious and athletic.  Trail is not only fun to watch, more importantly: some amount of training for this event is of benefit to all horses and riders – be they Western or English – and regardless of whether you show or not. 

     Most horses like the change in routine that Trail schooling brings.  It can help others gain confidence in the arena and working over poles can improve nearly every horse’s striding.  Arena Trail also gives riders a chance to vary their work, add new warm-up exercises to their routine and often improve their “feel” and general riding skills.  No matter what your goal, schooling for Arena Trail can help you become a closer and better partner with your horse – and you’ll have fun in the process!

     Modern Arena Trail is all about maneuverability, willingness and most importantly, agility.  The Trail horse must negotiate obstacles with style and ideally never touch a thing.  Horses must perform back-throughs, side passes and must be able to turn and circle in tight spaces which can be very challenging.  Trail horses must walk, trot, lope and halt when asked, with no resistance.  Often the courses are tight and transitions must be exact. 

     So…. Sounds like fun, yes?  But where do you start?  Arena Trail is an event that takes time and patience to train so it’s best to start out with simple maneuvers and build over time – much like teaching someone to read, you start out with the ABC’s, then a simple word, then get more complex as the student learns.  No matter what your horse’s true age, if they’ve not negotiated Trail obstacles before, they’re a new student and you not only want them to learn, you want to build confidence!

     I like to begin with one or two jog/trot poles or one lope/canter pole.  Trail is judged, in part, on striding over the poles and sometimes between the poles so, the jog poles for Western horses should be set 3 to 3.5 feet apart.  For an English horse, you’ll want to widen that to 4 feet.   As a horse grows more skilled in Trail the measurements can be more approximate but when I’m schooling a beginning Trail horse I take great care so the measurements should be as close to “perfect striding”  for the average horse as possible.

     I’ve had some beginning Trail horses that were curious and interested while others weren’t so sure about the obstacles.  Starting simple gives the horse the confidence it needs to build up to other, future obstacles and this simple start gives both horse and rider a good exercise in collection, striding and balance, used in a practical sense.

     During this starting phase those two jog/trot poles make a good starting back-through obstacle (though sometimes I have to widen them to build confidence).   I find it’s best to start teaching the back-through by walking the horse forward through the parallel jog/trot poles, asking them halt, then slowly asking for a straight back-up.  I’ll save teaching the horse to back into the actual obstacle for later, when they’re confident backing through simple obstacles. 

   A great thing about starting out with Trail though, you can always reduce things to their simplest common denominator.  Firstly, a horse must always be able and willing to do maneuvers without poles so I never teach maneuvers over poles until a horse is comfortable without poles.  For example, until a horse can lope or canter correctly, I’ll not lope or canter it over poles; the same thing can be said of the jog/trot and even the walk.  Until a horse can back up nicely, in a straight line, without rushing, I’ll not try to teach them to back through an obstacle.  You get the idea.  And, if a horse is afraid of the poles, I just encourage him or I’ll have him follow a veteran over or through an obstacle and before you know it, he’s doing it on his own.  I never punish an inexperienced horse over poles, I believe in letting the poles teach the horse!  And most of all, I believe in having fun while you learn and I hope this article makes you want to learn more about Arena Trail. 

     Talk to you next month with more on Arena Trail!  JD 

Bits

     There’s an old cowboy saying…. “a bit should fit a horse’s mouth like boots fit a cowboy’s foot”.   So, if a bit hangs too low or is jammed to high both can be uncomfortable and can discourage a horse from learning to “carry” the bit properly.
     Many people including professionals often don’t understand that a young horse has a shallow mouth because its teeth have not grown.  So an older horse might very well be comfortable with a thicker bit but that same but can be too much for the younger horse’s shallow mouth.   I usually bit up young horses with an average or slightly thicker-than-average bit.  Some older horses benefit from thicker bits depending on what you are trying to accomplish.  A note here:  You can usually tell if a horse is comfortable or not by how much he is chewing and adjusting the bit in his mouth. 
     Horse’s mouths change with age and they also change with training.  Horse’s mouths become educated and they learn to accept bits as their training progresses.  I’ve found that wet mouths make for better mouths but it’s not necessary that a horse be “drooly” to have a good mouth.
     The conformation of individual mouths must be considered also.  Some horses have narrow, shallow mouths with thin lips and some have wide mouths with lots of depth.  Some are small and some are large.   The thickness of their tongue should also be considered as well.  Horses with thick tongues will need bits that offer tongue relief.   
     Young horses often do well with bits that have some play and “pre-signal” in them.  It is just the opposite though for finely-tuned older horses.  The discipline you are training for also makes a difference.  Some horses just need to pack the bridle willingly and quietly while others must do complex maneuvers.  
      When fitting a curb, I look for one or one and a half creases at the corners of the mouth.  Classically, the curb strap should be adjusted so two of your fingers can fit between the strap and your horse’s jaw and the curb shanks should have a 15 to 30 degree swing but the mouthpiece should not rotate too much in their mouth.  And, with a snaffle I look for one to two creases at the corners of the mouth.
     With any equipment, the user – in this case the rider - is a major factor.  With the bit, the rider’s hands can be an issue.  Some bits are just not appropriate unless or until the rider has developed “soft hands” and has a real feel for a horse’s mouth.  
     I expect to and do change bits, sometimes frequently, as my horses age and develop and as they evolve through their careers.  Take a good look at the bits you use and if you’re not sure how each one is designed to work talk to your trainer to learn more.  Bits aren’t just common pieces of equipment; they can be fascinating studies in leverage and pressure and often, workmanship too.   I hope you enjoy learning more about them!  Talk to you next week.  JD

More on Positioning.....

    We talked about positioning the rider last week so now...... what about the horse?   I love how the great trainer Bob Avila said it: "if you control the rib cage everything else will follow".  Oh, how true but let's talk about this a minute because the devil can be in the details of that seemingly simple statement!
     A horse is basically built as a trapazoid so whichever way the shoulder goes, the hip will go to the opposite side and vice versa.  And, if a horse is yielding in his rib cage it's impossible for him to drop his shoulder.  This simple truth is often overlooked by horse people.
     Like all good trainers, I keep my horses supple and I do all kinds of exercises to achieve that suppleness but in the end, a horse must yield his rib cage to the rider's leg!  This allows the rider to ride the whole body of the horse.  While it's absolutely important to work on individual body parts such as a soft poll, a lifted back and shoulder, a rounded body etc.; the ultimate goal is to have the horse balanced throughout his body - i.e. collected - and the rib cage is the key.
     Focus on your horse's rib cage during your next ride to see what a difference that control can make.  To start, the horse should never lean or pull on a rein or lean on a rider in any way.  If a horse is even slightly leaning then he's not balanced nor can he be collected.  Hope this short thought helps during your next ride!  Talk to you next week, JD.

Positioning

     Whatever your discipline, how you position a horse’s body makes all the difference so it is of paramount importance that you understand the demands and needs of the discipline you are riding.  Positioning a horse’s body for barrel racing, for example, is very different than getting your horse correct for Trail, Western Riding or Reining.
     But…… it’s not my intent here to explain or go into the details regarding the needs of each of the aforementioned disciplines but rather I want to discuss how the rider influences the body position of the horse. 
     I’ll give you one clue to where I’m heading with this:  you must have your own body correct or nothing else can be correct.  In short, nothing really works correctly until you do.  Typically for most disciplines correct for you will mean: well balanced, heels deep, straight and square through your rib cage and shoulders and never stiff or arched in your back – remember sit up straight with your stomach muscles and hold up your chest and your back will follow without becoming hollow or arched).  If you are not sitting correctly you can interfere with your horse and in no way are you be able to help put the horse in the proper position that he needs to be to work his best. 
     Hand position is very important as well.  So often, I see horses dropping their shoulder because they’re “just following” the rider’s poorly placed hand.  You must be able to activate the correct rein and relax the opposite one when needed to allow a horse to have space to move while you still remain even and balanced. 
     The position of the rider’s legs is also so important.  I see riders attempting to collect their horses yet their own legs are way out in front, or they just have what I call “noisy” legs, meaning legs that are just not stable so they cause annoyance and possibly even confusion for the horse and an unstable seat for the rider. 
     In horses as in everything else, there is a direct relationship between cause and effect!  All horsemen must be effective and stable riders and to achieve this they must be aware of their own bodies and body parts and how those parts can positively or negatively affect their horse’s ability to perform well.  Now that I have you thinking about positioning, we’ll talk more about this at a later date!  Talk to you next week, JD

To Wrap or Not to Wrap, That is the Question!

     Christmas may be over but the season made me think of wrapping - wrapping legs that is!  And, let me first state: when it comes to wrapping legs it's very important to learn to wrap correctly because incorrect wrapping can cause damage and do more harm than not wrapping at all.  Your vet can show you how to wrap or an experienced groom or your trainer can take the time to help you practice wrapping correctly.  There are also many good articles with pictures on the subject that can help.  Good wrapping takes practice though - it's a skill everyone should learn!  And now, on with this discussion.....
     There are many reasons to wrap.  The general idea is to give support and to give protection against bumps that may cause splints.  Wraps are also used to reduce swelling and tighten legs, especially before halter and in-hand classes.  Often standing wraps are applied to give support after a horse has been worked hard in an event such as jumping.
     I personally prefer splint wraps for just protection against bumps that may cause splints.  I think good splint boots, because they are heavier, provide more protection than polo wraps.  They are quick and easy to use and wash up really nicely - often they just need a quick rinse.  And, best of all in my opinion: they don't need to be rolled!
     For horses such as reining horses, I have used polos but often also use splint boots, again because they seem to provide a better cushion against bump and strikes.  There are some "sports medicine" boots that give a lot of support as well.  Mostly I like to see what a horse perfers to work in.  I sometimes have used polos with quilts to give added protection and some horses really do well wrapped this way.  Much like a top human runner though, who's particular about which brand of shoe they wear, I've found that some of my Reining horses can be rather fussy about what you wrap them with.  On the other hand, my Western Pleasure horses don't seem to care what I wrap them with.  In any case, never forget that your "rail horses" - Hunters, Western Pleasure - and Trail horses, can not be shown with wraps on - of any kind.
     As a general rule, I don't haul in wraps.  If you're not using the new ice wraps, I find that horses seem to heat up during the long hauls that I frequently make.  I must add that I do haul in about four inches of shavings to give plenty of cushion for their legs and it also helps keep down the amount of heat coming up from the road which is very important.  A hint here:  If your shavings are too deep, they just bank up in the front and back of the horse and are wasted.  I do though put on wraps and bell boots if I'm hauling a horse with built-up shoes or if I'm not sure of a horse's hauling manners.
     I'm also not a fan of wrapping horses each and every time I ride.  If a horse is mature, shod properly, conditioned and sound and is being shown in an event that does not allow wrapping, I actually believe it's better not to wrap.  Horses that are used to always being wrapped and then are shown without wraps are more prone - I believe - to injury when showing.  Now, I know it's really popular to always wrap but I have had 100% success with the management I have described here.     With my Trail horses, I again prefer not to wrap because I want the horses to occasionally feel the poles and therefore learn to be "careful with their feet". 
     It's always good to consider when a horse is most likely to need wrapping.  Longing is a good example.  Also, horses that are carrying built-up shoes need more protection, including wraps and probably bell boots.  Younger horses that are learning how to carry their bodies correctly as well as balance under a rider's weight are good wrapping candidates.  And even youngsters, when they're turned out, if they're being "fractious" and playing and running hard, are good candidates for good wraps to avoid splints.
     Wrapping can and should be geared to what a horse needs and whether it will benefit from the wrap.  Wrapping with polos and track bandages (I only use polos) is an important skill that all horsemen should learn.  Take the time to learn to apply wraps correctly and to learn what type of wrap or boot is correct for you horse's needs.  And two last thoughts:  Polos and boots must be kept clean - I'll never re-use a dirty boot or wrap - and, I believe that all polos should be taped.  A little duct tape applied to the last wrap will help keep the wrap in place.
     I hope this discussion helps!  Talk to you next week.  JD
 
    
    

The Lope

     What is it that makes for a good lope?  Well..... let's start wth the basics, a lope is a three beat gait and it's sequence should go like this:  first beat = outside hind leg; second = inside hind and outside front moving together and third = inside front. 
      A lope has a "lead" and the "leading" legs are the inside front and inside hind.  Now ideally the inside back and front legs should move equal distances.  The outside hind is what I always call the "push off" leg - the leg providing the initial impulsion for the gait.
     (And a reminder for those of you who are just starting out:  Unless the rider has deliberately asked for a counter-canter which is rare, a horse is on the correct lead when leading with his inside front and back legs or, another way of putting it: when loping to the right, the horse should be on his right lead with his right legs leading.  We'll talk about counter-canters in a whole other blog!)
     Often, you will see some horses that appear to be "trotting" behind when loping but actually, what is happening is the horse is short striding behind to the extent that there is no longer a leading hind leg.  Of course this is not correct but you may see it in some novice horses as they learn to properly push off and reach up under themselves with their hind legs (and unfortunately, you also see it in some of today's Western Pleasure horses when they lack proper impulsion).   When horses are loping correctly the lope should be an even, flowing stride, exhibiting the same cadence and same speed all around the arena.
     A horse that is loping well does not drop his shoulder when going through a corner but rather pushes deep with his outside hind and then takes a longer stride with his inside hind because of the arc of the corner - or line - the horse is traveling.  If a horse must pass another horse at a lope, he also should not drop his shoulder but should almost move over laterally.  When horses drop their shoulders they pick up speed and generally just look a little sloppy because they cannot be collected when traveling with a dropped shoulder.   Remember that a horse must always be balanced from back to front and also side to side.  The operative word here is balance.  No "leaning Towers of Pisa"!  No pushing on your leg or rein!
     In short, a good lope has a "distinct gait, an easy pleasant way of going, nicely bridled, soft on the rein, carrying his back and shoulders up, engaged with the hip".  The horse should not pick up speed but stay in the same frame, at the same speed and with the same cadence all around the arena or obstacle.  
     I hope this helps you fine tune your lope or perhaps just learn to see or feel your leads better.  Talk to you next week and, Merry Christmas to all!  JD.