Movement

     Movement is such an important quality in a horse so I'd like to briefly address this subject.  In short and in fact, the horses with the better conformation generally move much better.  That said, keep in mind though that halter horses are bred for the breed ideal and are not bred for performance so rarely are they the best movers, often they do move nicely but not greatly.
     We evaluate a horse's movement depending on the standards of the breed and the type of work the horse will be doing.  Horses that are good movers within their breed and discipline standard make the job look easy and effortless.  Often, these horses find their respective jobs less demanding than their less talented stablemates.
     A good moving horse is not only a joy to watch, he is also easy to ride and nice to train.  If (for instance) you have found that the jog is difficult to sit, you most certainly have not ridden a horse that has a natural easy jog.  If you are having trouble teaching a horse to lope, it is probably due in part to the horse's lack of natural ability and comfort at the lope, and so on....
     Now yes, we can improve a horse's gate through training.  Supplying excercise also helps all horses.  Teaching horses good collection always improves a horse.  The work of a good shoer is also a "must" in my opinion.  But, you cannot make a bad mover into a good mover with shoes, nor can you make a mediocre mover into a very good mover with shoes.  The horse either has it or he doesn't.  Now, I certainly believe you can enhance a good horse through good training and shoeing - just as you want the proper running shoes on an Olympic miler.
     So, when you're evaluating your next horse, be sure to look for good movement!  Talk to you next week, JD.

Uniqueness

     Unique = of which there is only one; unequaled; having no like, equal or parallel. 

     I've been training horses for a very long time.  I've thrown my leg across many, many horses and,  I've found that each and every one is a unique individual.
     In general, people like to categorize things and trainers like to categorize horses.  I do it as well.  It helps clients understand their horses in a broad sense and it also helps them realize their problems are shared by other horse people.  But, every time I use categorization as an aid to teaching or in a discussion, I'm aware that there is more left unsaid than said.  Sometimes its so hard to really express or describe what I want to say so I fall into broad categories.
     But, every horse is unique, like no other horse has been and like no other horse will be.  They are individuals and when we forget this we never do the horse justice.  Sure, there are lazy horses and overachievers.  There are worriers and fuss-budgets.  There are stubborn horses, sullen horses, fearful horses, confident horses and horses with no confidence whatsoever.  But, each one has his own personality and deserves to be treated as a unique individual.
     When we remember to do this, we give the horse the respect it deserves and a greater chance to succeed at whatever task we are teaching it and, we are no longer just mass producing horsees for the show ring or cow pen or whatever.  We become better horsemen and our horses are just so much more fun and interesting to be around.  The whole process of training and developing a horse to it's full - and unique - potential is so rewarding!  Talk to you next week, JD.
   

Conversations

     Over coffee recently, with a long-time friend who's also a professional horseman, we got to discussing why some people seem to always be having trouble with their horses being resistant or "heavy".  It was an interesting conversation that could have gone on all day but I want to relate one small but useful gem from what we talked about, or - truth be told - what I was thinking while we talked.
     I think most people understand the concept that you can't make a heavy mouthed horse (or heavy sided horse for that matter) soft by just being soft.  The opposite is quite true.  If you meet resistance in the mouth, you must create what I call a soft wall with your hands, then bump your horse forward into that wall until the horse softens and gives to the bit.  (For more tips on how to create that soft wall, see my January 27, 2014 blog.)
     So far so good - right?  But here's where the problems start......  You must release (or "soften") just as soon as the horse gives and yields to your hands.  If you do not soften your aids - in this case, your hands - then the resistance comes.  If the rider fails repeatedly to soften or "give back" when the horse gives, you often see horses just "give up" and then they can get really heavy, really quickly.
     My good friend agreed with me that there is so much more to this subject and we could have talked all day.  Instead, we mutually agreed to leave some of the topic for a later conversation but I hope this thought helps during your next ride!  Talk to you next week, JD.
    

Efficiency

     Definition:  Efficient = Productive with minimum of waste or effort.

     One thing I take a small amount of pride in, is that over the years I have learned to be an efficient trainer.  Now, this does not mean that I rush things or work in a hurry because that is most definitely not the case.
     What I mean is that I don't waste time on things that have proven to not get the results I want.  I have learned to let my horses tell me when to move onward, or add a level of complexity.  I have carefully honed my skills so that the techniques I use get results, and, of course results are the
ultimate key to success in anything you do. 
     I'm constantly assessing and re-assessing every ride to make sure there is real progress.  I am quite happy with slow progress but progress none-the-less.  I believe the turtle most often wins over the hare and that if you hurry and rush, often you must go backwards to "fix" a problem that has arisen.  I see this happening frequently to people.
     To be truly efficient, you cannot try to teach a horse something he is not yet ready to learn.  For example, don't begin trying to teach a side-pass if the horse isn't yet willing to move his rib cage off your leg. Or, don't start to teach a horse to spin before your horse easily crosses over in front.  Don't try to teach a horse to back between poles before he backs readily and straight without poles.  I think you get my point....
     I hope these thoughts help you consider how you might make your program more efficient and get results!  Talk to you next week, JD

Rants and Raves

    For those of you who like the "Rant and Rave" column in the weekly paper, here's my own version:

Rant:  People who decide to bathe horses for absolutely no reason in below-40 degree weather.  Horses get cold just like we do so put off bathing until the weather or barn is warm.  A good, deep curry can do wonders in the meantime and if you must bathe, think about just washing a tail or make sure you have plenty of warm coolers to pile on after the bath, and make sure you have time to wait for them to do their job of wicking the moisture off your horse.

Rave:  People who sweep up after their horses in the cross-ties every single time.  Thank you, thank you, thank you is all I can say!

Rant:  People who don't make any effort to walk their horsees out after a hard, sweaty work and just tie them up with a cooler.  Walking out to cool down keeps the blood circulating while the horse's respiration also gets back to normal and decreases the chance of them stocking-up.

Rave:  People who make the time and effort to warm up their horses before putting them to work.  Going to work cold can cause injuries.  I like to make sure my horse's brain, as well as his muscles, tendons and ligaments are ready for work. 

Rant:  People who wait until just before a show or event then decide they need a lesson or help with something.  My advice: stay current and ride like there's a show tomorrow, all year long!

Rave:  People who prepare themselves and their horses far in advance of a show and stay ahead of the game. You know who you are, and you enjoy the results.

Rant: People who think horses are there for them, instead of the other way around.  We must be there for our horses, otherwise it gets completely out of whack. 

Thanks for listening!  Talk to you next week, JD.

The Long Haul, Part II

     My thoughts are with all the people hauling trailers this time of year.  Whether you've headed to Scottsdale over the Rockies or through Oregon's Siskiyous or you're just trailering up the road to a local show it can be tough if you're not prepared (and that also includes being prepared to cry "uncle" and know when enough's enough - there's always another show!).  Be safe everyone! 
     Last fall I shared some of  my thoughts on taking care of your truck and trailer and loading and planning for a safe trip.  Here are some more of my tips on how to make those long hauls as successful as possible:
     My main focus is on getting the horses to where they are going as quickly and safely as possible.  All long hauls have some inherent stress but I make every attempt to make the haul as easy on the horses as I can. 
     I usually don't offer my horses water when I stop for fuel.  I find they either don't drink or don't drink enough to make a difference (since a sip or two won't hydrate a horse).  Horses in the wild often travel long distances to find water and go for hours without it.  Horses that are experienced travelers learn to drink deeply when they arrive at their destination and I find that by trying to get them to drink on the road just wastes precious time that would be better spent gettting them to that night's destination where they can really rest and drink their fill.
     I also don't grain my horses when hauling long distances but they can have all the chop, hay, alfalfa pellets or beet pulp they want.  When I get to my final destination, I will wait for several hours before giving them grain or I might even wait until the next day's noon feeding.  I feed three times a day and I usually feed grain and supplements mid-day and evening.  In the morning, they get hay only.  (This can also help when you have early classes.)
     At overnight stops, I like to plan my arrival and departure so I can rest my horses 8 or 9 hours.  I find they are ready to go the next morning and need less time to recuperate from the haul once we get to the show.  If your horse is a finicky drinker, add electrolytes to its feed during overnight stops.  Electrolytes will encourage them to drink.  We also always give the horses some sort of medicine such as a probiotic along the way, to prevent colic. 
     Something else I should mention:  I try to put horses together in the trailer and at nightly stops that get along with each other.  And, if you have a horse that bites, put a muzzle on him.  I haul a mix of sexes, a stallion, mares and geldings.  The stallion goes up front, then geldings and finally the mares.  If you have trouble with your stallion, I find that a little Vicks in his nose will help so he can't smell the mares (and I'll sometimes do this a mare too if she tends to act up around a stallion).  I always start the mares on Regumate before the haul so that helps them as well.
     I don't like to haul in leg wraps.  I find that horse's legs really heat up under them - not good if you're on the road for hours.  If I must wrap a leg, I will use heavy quilts under the wraps and secure the wrap with duct tape so it won't come undone during the haul.  We might use a wrap on a horse that hits itself or its neighbors while hauling.  There's just no hard and fast rule here, whatever works.  We do use bell boots with some horses to keep them from pulling off shoes, especially if they're built up or have extra support. 
     I'd like to add that I make sure all my horses have at least one whole day to just rest after we arrive after a long haul.  They get some light excerise on the second day and are back to regular work by the third day.  And then, they're ready for the show!  There's nothing better than a horse that's easy to load, happy to haul and and easy-keeper once you get where you're going.  I hope these tips help you eliminate some of the stress of hauling.  Talk to you next week!  JD

A Soft Wall

     I didn't start writing blogs to teach people how to train horses but, rather I wanted to share information on how to become better and (hopefully) more successful at their horse endeavors.  To that end, on occassion I write about discussions we've had at the barn.  Here I go again....
     When I ride, people (not just clients) often ask questions and so I get a chance to explain what I'm doing and why.  The other day, I was working with an older horse, a horse that can be a little afraid of moving up to the bridle when loping.  Now this horse has a lot of natural head set and can pretty much "hang" in the bridle as long as nothing is asked of him.  Well, that doesn't work for Trail and it certainly doesn't work when trying to improve a horse's collection. 
     So, I will let the horse hit my hands when it hits the bit.  I don't pull or jerk, I just create a soft, pliable wall with my hands.  I tighten my fingers on the reins but my hands stay put.  After the horse hits this "soft wall", it will drop back to the bridle as I push him with my legs (being careful to not add too much momentum).
     Using this technique, the horse will lean to move up to the bridle when asked and not to be afraid of the bridle because you're not hurting his mouth, you're just containing him.  You've made it easy for him to do the right thing instead of the wrong thing.
     This method is borrowed from classic dressage and it helps greatly if the horse has been bitted-up and worked properly from the ground during longing or ground driving.  Talk to you next week!  JD